LOCAL COMMENTARY

A visit to Ghana - some interesting and familiar experiences

by Dr Louise Malcolm 

Thursday,  October 27, 2005

I read in the Cayman Net News, Issue 928, Wednesday 21 September 2005, an article by Justice Kipling Douglas, on his visit to Ghana. Needless to say, the article was brilliantly written, refreshing to read, something different from the everyday information. At the end of the article he wrote, “I consider it a great pity that among us, there are so many …who either cannot afford, or have never given any thought, to visiting West Africa, particularly Ghana, to glean firsthand something of their roots.”

I agree with this statement and want to share some of my interesting and familiar experiences when two friends and I visited Ghana (from July 30 to August 12, 2005). Further, due to airline issues we got a chance to visit Nigeria and saw parts of the city via bus. 

From the article, I figured that Mr Douglas stayed mainly in Accra. My friends and I spent two days in Accra, then moved on to Winneba (meaning Windy Bay) and spent the remainder of our stay there.

Winneba is about 35 miles from Accra, it was cool, we had to wear light sweaters the climate reminded me so much of Mandeville.

In Winneba, we stayed at the Lagoon Lounge, in a real rustic environment, a little away from the sea and near to a traditional African village and also near to the University of Winneba, Department of Education Campus.

Winneba was our base to travel to some of the various points of interest mentioned in Mr Douglas’ article. The most common mode of transportation in Ghana in general was a seat in a car/taxi, and the drivers all compete for passengers. Sounds familiar? 

One could also hire a taxi for long journeys and that was just what we did. The cost to hire a car for a day is roughly, in Ghanaian currency 44,000 Cedis or in US currency about $48 and roughly 6,000-8,000 Cedi for a seat in a taxi. My ride to Elmina Castle and Cape Coast Castle was an enjoyable one, but the experience moved me to tears especially when the tour guide explained: how women captured for export had to cope with the hygiene of menstruation, how the slave masters met their sexual needs, and when the guide involved us in a simulated exercise, reminiscent of the last holding area prior to shipment to the West Indies, as slaves.

I felt a bit embarrassed crying, but when I finally regained my composure I noticed that others were crying too. Some appeared to be from nations that were not even directly involved in the cruel slave trade. Therefore they made me feel that a tear or two from one of African descent was justified.

An interesting visit was made to the Craft Museum in Accra. The craftsmen skilfully captured the essence of their culture in art form using local resources such as wood, banana bark and they make the famous Kente. 

However, most of the Kente is usually from the Ashanti and Volta Regions. Much of their craft depict men’s and women’s role in the society, housing, political, religious and culinary life. I noticed that the goods were not priced. One could pay a particular price for an article in one section of the museum and another price in another section.

Does that sound familiar? Prices are based on bartering/bargaining/haggling.

Hence a price is usually determined when both buyer and seller agree. This explains why a visitor may pay three times or more than a local for a similar item. I learned that, when a local accompanied me on the second visit. Oh so familiar!

What was also ‘strikingly’ familiar was the persuasive charm of the sellers as they invite customers to see the wares in their stalls.

Another interesting visit was made to the Kakum National Park. While several of the younger visitors and mature adventurers opted to view the park via the canopy walk, my party decided to take the hike through the rainforest. 

The canopy is pure adrenaline, sways slightly, is suspended 100 feet above the ground, is 350 metres long and has 6 tree platforms. On our hike the tour guide was great in pointing out the use of certain trees, and their leaves, flowers, stems, fruits, bark and roots. 

Much of the information and some names sounded so familiar. In fact, in my tour group of 8 persons, I observed that I was the only one who kept on saying: “That sounds familiar”, or “We use it for the same purpose in Jamaica”, so after a while I kept quiet.

I did not want to hinder others from asking questions. I learnt that the bissy (nut/fruit), also called bisi in the Akan language, or kola, the English word for Bissi, was identified as an antidote against poison. 

It was also interesting to learn that it is used to inform others of a death. The bark of one tree was identified as dye for staining and polishing the floor. The tree reminded me of a similar one used for the same purpose when I was a child.

Various kinds of shrubs/plant were identified as cold medicine and that (use) also sounded familiar. The root of one tree; Essa was used as an aphrodisiac and was described as comparable to Viagra- interesting, since a comparable ‘medicine’ is found in our Sarsaparill and cheney root plants.

I also learned of the cheng cheng, the leaves of a plant used by women to ensure easy childbirth. At the end of this exhausting and interesting visit I was amused at the familiar and welcome sight of the coconut man at the foot of the hill, ready to sell his jelly coconut to thirsty hikers.

Familiar behaviours were also noted among those selling on the road. Sellers were of varying ages, including children. 

As soon as a vehicle stops, sellers brave the traffic seeking buyers for their plantain chips, water, bread, kenke or dokunu, which is the original version of Jamaican dukunu, wrapped in cornhusk or plantain leaves - Indeed familiar. 

Wooden stalls and handcarts could be seen everywhere. On these stalls were a variety of products including, roast yam, fried fish, boiled eggs and fruits such as mangoes and pineapples-one of the sweetest in the world.

A school visit also reminded me of familiar experiences in the school system in Jamaica. Although the government schools were on holidays, the private schools were still operating, so as educators we sought and obtained permission to visit a school, one run by the Seventh Day Adventist. When we gleaned through children’s notebook we were astonished to see the quality of work that students had to submit, and I dare say not under the best physical condition and with very little educational resource/materials. 

After lunch, students helped to wash dishes. I remember then that when I was attending school it was not uncommon for students to be involved in washing the dishes after lunch.

The students were happy to see us and all wanted their pictures taken. I recall a little girl of kindergarten age came into the principal’s office crying and complaining that she did not get her picture taken because someone stood in front of her.

We were all touched by this universal childhood behaviour, so I took another set of pictures, this time ensuring that no one stood in front of her. She beamed with joy then. The University of Winneba was also in session, for their Summer Programme, and so we had the opportunity to tour the campus, lecture rooms and the library.

I was surprised to see the age of some textbooks, yet in conversations with students they were highly motivated, diligent and of course looking forward to completing their programme. Also sounds familiar.

In Nigeria, we stayed at one of the nicest hotels I have ever been. The fish soup/tea was delicious. I was extremely surprised to see the fishing villages there, the houses were literally on the sea, but they do not have hurricanes.

One of my disappointments was that I did not get the opportunity to enter a traditional African village, because we were unable to find a suitable escort, since no stranger is allowed. 

I hope this article will, like Mr Douglas’, further motivate others to change from their traditional destinations and visit West Africa, in particular Ghana and share something of their roots. You won’t regret it. By the way, it is only 6 hours ride from London. 

Dr Louise Malcolm, is an Educational Psychologist in the Education Department, Cayman Islands and her friends are teachers in the government school system.

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