Island Fever
There's great taste and usesin dem limes
Barbara Currie Dailey
From West Indian limes to Sevile oranges,without citrus, the taste of Caribbean cuisine would be very different- and like many island edibles, the origins of at least one memberof this family of fruits, the West Indian lime, remains a sourceof debate.
When did citrus appear in our part of the world? Some historiansclaim evidence proves Spanish explorers found Amerindians liberallyseasoning their fish not only with sauces made from cassareep,a blend of cassava juice, salt and pepper, but also with smallyellow limes.
But like Al Gore inventing the Internet, the Europeans like totake credit for introducing just about everything to the New World,except disease and slavery. So they claim to have brought thefirst orange and other citrus later.
Native to countries bordering the South China Sea, the orangeprobably traveled across the sea to Africa with Arab traders,then to the Mediterranean with Islamic warriors and finally, tothe Caribbean with the Spaniards.
Columbus is commonly credited with bringing the first citrus tothe region: oranges from the Canary Islands, planted in Hispaniolain 1493. By the beginning of the 16th century, oranges were growingfrom Cuba to Trinidad. While here in Cayman we love oranges, itis the humble and very special West Indian lime that is the realstar of the Caribbean kitchen, rivaling hot island peppers andthyme as a key seasoning.
West Indian Lime (Citrus aurantifolia)
Where did our limes come from? Historians claim the pucker trailstarted in Malaysia, and traveled with Arab traders to North Africaand followed the same route as the orange to the New World.. Otherresearches claim evidence suggest the native Amerindians werealready using lime juice as seasoning when the
Europeans arrived..
All I know is that I arrived in the Caribbean 25 years ago todiscover its people using this curious little yellow fruit bythe bucketful -in the kitchen and bar at the Buccaneer's Inn inCayman Brac. Once I tasted my first fresh-squeezed island lime-aidand that incredible Cayman lime pie, I was puckered for life.
There has been no truly acceptable substitute in my kitchen sinceand I find new uses for limes constantly. I have to. Our incrediblyprolific lime tree is the prize of our Grand Cayman yard, butit produces fruit like an entire grove. In season, one shake suppliesus, our family and friends with sackfuls of luscious little gems.
So this little lime may have originated in Malaysia, but I amgoing to upset the agricultural experts and suggest today's WestIndian limes are an indigenous variety, a hybrid unique to theregion, made juicier and sweeter by our docile climate and perpetualsunshine. Nor do I think they are the same as key limes.
West Indian limes are smaller, sweeter and juicier than Persianlimes (Citrus latifolia) and have thinner, pale yellow skins whenfully ripe. They average only about 1-1/4 inches in diameter,but they pack more vitamin C per drop than any other fruit.
By the early 18th century, Her Majesty's Royal Navy was loadingregular supplies in Jamaica to mix with the sailors' staggeringtwice daily daily rations of water and rum, to prevent scurvyamong the crew. That's the origin of the the term 'limey', thefavorite West Indian nickname for Englishmen.
Today, limes are one of the most important ingredients in Caribbeansauces, marinades and drinks - and of course, the perfect complementto rum. Trust me, any recipe calling for lemon juice is improvedby using West Indian lime juice instead.
The origin of our lime is almost as contentious an issue as thebest recipe for lime pie. Of course, it is Cayman Lime Pie, butthe next question is who makes the absolute best? You tell me.Here is my recipe, but please slice and savor, rather than useas a projectile against sour people.
Barbara Currie Dailey is the Author of the Tortuga Rum Fever &Caribbean Party Book
Tortuga Cayman Lime Pie
Condensed milk was invented by an American, Gail Borden, in1853. It has been a staple of Caribbean pantries since, even afterfresh dairy products became available.
The absolute best? You tell me! (Key Lime Pie) Please don't confuseit with evaporated milk - that's a completely different thingand not an acceptable substitute!! This is my variation of thispopular tropical dessert. Please use only fresh key lime juice-or don't bother with this recipe. This makes a tart pie- if youlike a very tart pie increase the lime juice to 2/3 cup.
Crust:
1-1/4 cups finely crushed graham cracker or crisp lemon cookiecrumbs
3 tablespoons butter, melted
2 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed
- teaspoon grated nutmeg
- teaspoon grated lime zest
Filling:
4 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons grated lime zest
1 14- ounce can sweetened condensed milk
- cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh key lime juice
3 tablespoons Tortuga Light Rum
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
Topping:
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon confectioner's sugar
1 tablespoon Tortuga Light Rum
For crust: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine ingredientsand blend well. Press evenly into a 9-inch glass pie plate, coveringbottom and sides up to the top. Bake until lightly browned,forabout 8 -10 minutes, then remove from oven and allow to cool atleast 20 minutes. (If you're intimidated by making your own crust,use a 9-inch prepared graham cracker crust.)
For filling: Use an electric mixer to beat egg yolks andlime zest at high speed until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.On low speed, gradually add condensed milk, blending well, thenadd lime juice, bitters and rum, mixing until just blended. Pourmixture into the cooled pie crust and bake at 350 about 12-15minutes or until center is firm and set.
Allow pie to cool 20 minutes on rack, then refrigerate uncoveredat least four hours, or store in freezer. When ready to serve,whip together the heavy cream, sugar and rum until it forms stiffpeaks. Mound onto the pie and spread evenly. Or, better yet, topthe chilled pie with a sliced ripe mangos, strawberries or otherfresh fruit and garnish with a generous dollop of rummy whippedcream. Sometimes I surprise guests and serve with avocado slicesinstead - delicious!!
The Original Key Lime Pie
Old 'conchs' Key West natives, are key lime pie purists lookdown their noses on cooks who use condensed milk. They swear thisis the original, and still the best recipe, more like a lime curd.
1 baked 9-inch pastry pie crust, not graham cracker crust
Filling:
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
4 large yolks
1 teaspoon grated key lime zest
1/3 cup fresh key lime juice
2 tablespoons Tortuga Light Rum
2 tablespoons butter
Combine the first three ingredients in a large heavy saucepanand stir until evenly mixed. Gradually add the milk, stirringuntil blended. Over medium heat, cook the mixture, stirring constantlyin a figure-8 motion, until it thickens and comes to a full boil.Boil for one minute, stirring constantly, then remove from heat.In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks on high until thickened. Measureout 2/3 cup of the milk mixture and stir quickly into the eggyolks until blended. Add the egg mixture to the custard in saucepan,stirring constantly. Return to stove and cook over medium heat,stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Remove from heat again andstir in the lime zest, lime juice, rum and butter. Stir quicklyto blend, then spoon into the baked pastry shell and chill thepie for least four hours. Top with meringue or serve each slicewith a dollop of Rummy Whipped Cream.
Meringue:
4 eggs whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 cup sugar plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon Tortuga Light Rum
Preheat oven to 350 F. Beat the egg whites and cream of tartaron high about 1 minute. Gradually beat in the sugar, one tablespoonat a time, then the rum and beat until stiff peaks form, about3-4 minutes. Spread the meringue in swirls over the top of thelime filling, right to the edge, sealing the pie. Bake the piefor 12-15 minutes until meringue is lightly browned.
Barbara Currie Dailey is the Author of thenTortuga Rum Fever & Caribbean Party Book, available throughoutthe Cayman Islands. She resides in Grand Cayman.