Island Fever
Wahoo-Cayman Style!
Babara Currie Dailey
Years ago in a thatched-roof bar, many willreverently remember as the Holey Hut, a very married Bracker fishermanI barely knew told the entire crowd he wanted to take me homefor 'a little wahoo'. It was his speciality, he boasted.
Horrified, my eyes popped like an embolizedgrouper at this blatant indiscretion. But I quickly learned thathere in Cayman, wahoo is a delicacy - not a dalliance. Once Itasted this sweet, succulent fish, fresh from the pan, seasonedsimply with Cayman lime and pepper, I understood why it's a nationalpassion.
And when the 'wahoo flu' strikes hard duringFebruary, peak season in Cayman, the only cure is catching one.
If Caymanians voted for a national fish,my bet would be on the wahoo. Scientists call it Acanthocybiumsolanderi. Here we call it queenfish - not to be confused withthe divers favourite Queen Angelfish. Not even old wife (Queentriggerfish), deep-water silk (red snapper), or dolphin tops thisfish on the table.
Traditionally, when Caymanians talked aboutgoin' fishin'in, they really meant trolling for queenfish. Andyou might return with a cooler full of fish - but a disappointedshrug to those waiting onshore said, 'no luck-- queenfish noton board'.
In the sport-fishing world, wahoo is a legendarygame fish. Pound for pound, its one of the fastest and most furiousfighters in the sea This streamlined, cigar-shaped fish with darktiger stripes has sharp-toothed, beak-like jaws. It hits baithard, swims at speeds of up to 50 mph and can pass the boat, stripa reel and skunk even skilled anglers in the blink of an eye.
That's why wire line with a skirted ballyhoois the tackle of choice - except during tournaments. Wahoo canreach six feet and weigh over 120 pounds. The IGFA World All TackleRecord is 155.5 lbs. Cayman's All-Tackle record is 105 lbs. 10oz. set in February 1987 by Grand Cayman angler, Naul Bodden.
We catch wahoo year-round - especially inthe Brac's legendary wahoo-infested waters. December through Marchis Cayman's peak wahoo season, when catches can run big as 50-90pounds. Local fishermen claim February is the best month for thisfish in our waters and that's when the Cayman Islands AnglingClub (CIAC) hosts its annual Wahoo Classic tournament.
This year's takes place February 10 &11, offering big cash prizes for the top wahoo, including US$10,000for the first angler to break Naul Bodden's Cayman's All Tacklerecord.
The CIAC is a friendly mix of over 100 avidanglers and welcomes new members, both resident and visitor. Call(345) 949-7099 or E-mail fishing@candw.ky for information.
Caymanians prize queenfish as food ratherthan sport - it's one of the finest eating fish in the sea. Yet,strangely enough, you won't find even a mention in 'The Joy ofCooking' or even most Caribbean cookbooks, or on many restaurantmenus outside of Cayman.
Some mistakenly mistake it for mackereland dismiss it as fishy and too dry - that's not true. Overcookingruins too often wahoo. Its sweet, firm but tender white fleshcan be filleted, cut into steaks or separated into boned, skinlessmedallions. Its texture and fine flavour lends itself to an endlessvariety of recipes, from simply grilled to sophisticated presentationslike Veronique or Meuniere.
Wahoo is also superb with bold spices -try it with Cajun-style blackened or jerk seasonings. Properlyprepared, it's one of the tastiest fish you can eat. Here aretwo recipes to prove it.
Lime Pepper Grilled Wahoo
This simple recipe is as good as it getsand a Cayman favourite---but the wahoo must be fresh. If you prefer,saute in hot peanut oil instead of grilling. The cooking timewill be about the same.
4 8-ounce wahoo fillets or steaks
3 Cayman limes
2 teaspoons Lemon pepper blend (1/2 teaspoon per piece)
1 teaspoon garlic salt, divided (1/4 teaspoon per piece)
2 tablespoons olive oil
Place fish in a resealable bag and squeezein the lime juice. Seal bag and turn several times gently to coatfish, then refrigerate and marinate 30 minutes. Remove the fish,drain and brush lightly with olive oil, then sprinkle with pepperand salt.
Place fish on a barbecue grate or fish rackand grill quickly over a medium fire until fish just begins toseparate when prodded with a fork (only about 2-3 minutes perside, depending on thickness - the lime has already partially'cooked' the fish).
Have Tortuga HellFire Hot Pepper Sauce,Pickapeppa Sauce or condiment of choice on the table if desired.It is delicious just like this. Don't worry about leftovers -there won't be any. Serves 4.
Barbecued Wahoo Cayman Style
My husband Jim's favourite 'old Caymanian'queenfish recipe dates back 30 years - to times of imaginativeuse of what was available in Cayman. Many claim the original recipefor Cayman-style fish used ketchup, not tomatoes.
4 generous (6-8 ounce) wahoo fillets, skinand bloodline removed
Juice of 3 fresh Cayman limes
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 ounces Tortuga Gold Rum
1-1/2 teaspoons seasoned salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
º cup Pickapeppa Sauce
1 large yellow onion, sliced thin
1 large green pepper, seeded and cored, sliced thin
2 tablespoons margarine cut into four pieces
Combine the fish fillets, lime juice, orangejuice and rum in a resealable plastic bag and marinate for 30minutes, turning bag over several times, while preparing the barbecue.When fire is almost ready, spray a large piece of heavy aluminiumfoil with PAM or other vegetable oil spray.
Remove fish from marinade and discard allbut 2 tablespoons marinade. Arrange filets on foil. Season withseasoned salt, garlic powder and pepper. Combine ketchup, Worcestershiresauce and Pickapeppa sauce and spread over fish. Top with slicedonions and peppers, then dot with margarine.
Pour the reserved marinade on top, thenpull edges of foil together and seal tightly to make a packet.Place on grate over medium fire and cover. Cook 10- 15 minutes.Remove from heat, open packet carefully so juice doesn't spill.
Test fish - it is done when it just separateswhen prodded with a fork. Try not to overcook fish - should stillbe moist and opaque. Refrigerate any leftovers and reheat withgrits for breakfast. Serves 4.