SkinAsthetics
Skin Discoloration
NoveletteBodden,
Certified Aesthetician
Skin discoloration is aprevalent problem, especially among females. This condition createsboth psychological and physical problems. It is known by manydifferent names: hyper pigmentation, melasma and choasma. Thecause is the overproduction or uneven production of melanin.
Melanin is a pigment producedby the basal cells of the dermis called melanocytes. These cellscoexist with other cells called keratinocytes, which are the deadcells forming the stratum cornium or epidermis (top layer of theskin). Together they form a melanin unit. There are two typesof melanin. One that causes brown-black pigmentation, while theother causes red-yellow pigmentation.
Many factors can cause overor uneven production of melanin. These include birth control pills,pregnancy, hormone replacement therapy, sun exposure, drugs containingphototoxic agents, abrasions or acne. There are different typesof hyper pigmentation: Freckles are pigmented brown spots; melasmais an acquired irregular brown to grayish brown hyper pigmentationmainly on the face and occasionally on the nec; and lentiges arebrown spots.
Hydroquinone was one ofthe first treatments developed for this condition. It works byblocking the actions in the formation of melanin. Its effectivenesscan be increased by combining with hydrocortisone, Retin A, orglycolic acid. Clinical studies performed by doctors have demonstratedthat the best treatment available today for hyper pigmentationis low ph, non-neutralized glycolic acid. The low ph allows theglycolic to penetrate the skin. When the glycolic acid penetratesthe skin it improves the discoloration via two modes of action.It exfoliates excess melanin in the stratum cornium and also inhibitsmelanin. The treatment consists of a series of in-salon peelsover a three-month period accompanied by home care products.
The second most effectiveproduct on the market is Kojic acid. This was developed in Japanas an alternative to hydroquinone. It works by inhibiting melaninproduction. Microdermabrasion is the latest tool in the treatmentof hyper pigmentation and the results are good.
Appropriate sun protectionis an essential part of the treatment program. A single exposureto the sun will increase the functional activity of the melanocytes,while multiple exposure will increase the number of epidermalmelanin units and the number of melanosomes. Clients should weara moisturizer every morning with a SPF 15 and use a sun blockwith a SPF 30 when they go to the beach or perform any prolongedoutside activity
Novelette Bodden
Spa Novell