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Island Fever: Tastes &Tales of Cayman
Solving the Lechon AsadoMystery
I apologize to readers who were left atloose ends in the caboose last week wondering what on earth Iwas talking about in this column. When I mentioned "Spanish"influences on Caymanian cookery, meaning Cuba and our CentralAmerican neighbors, I assumed everyone in Cayman knew that lechonasado is Cuban-style roast pork.
I was wrong and many didn't. While thisdish is widely enjoyed here in Cayman, it's not always calledby that name. You may be more familiar with carne asado ("Spanish"style roast beef) a regular today on many chalkboard menus. Sohere is an explanation and a recipe-- and an apology for thatoversight.
On Christmas Eve and Three Kings Day (Feastof the Epiphany, January 6) , lechon asado is the traditionalhighlight of the holiday table. In its most festive form, it isa whole suckling pig, usually about 20 30 pounds, slowlyroasted in a pit and served with great ceremony. But lechon asadois enjoyed year round using smaller cuts, such as fresh leg ofham, pork loin or even fresh picnic, which are uniquely seasonedand slow-roasted until falling of the bone, which is the way ourCuban and other Latin neighbors like their pork.
You will need plenty of fresh garlic andSeville (sour) oranges for this dish. This is a delicious wayto prepare Cayman's local fresh pork, which is sold in the meatcounters of our local supermarkets. If you don't have time tomake your own marinade and want a speedy but similar taste, substitutean equal quantity of ready-made Kirby Spanish Barbecue Sauce orBadia Mojo marinade. I suggest adding a little fresh orange juiceto these mixes, as they tend to be overly acidic. Both are availableat local supermarkets. Here is my recipe from Tortuga Rum Feverand Caribbean Party Cookbook.
Cuban RoastPork
Nothing is more delicious than boldly seasonedlechon asado, or roast suckling pig, the highlight of the traditionalCuban Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) celebration, Three Kings Day(Feast of the Epiphany) and many other Caribbean fetes. But ifroasting a whole 20-pound pig isn't convenient, try this scaleddown recipe for a delicious island-style pork feast.
1 8-pound bone-in fresh ham (shank portion) or boneless pork loinroast
12 large cloves garlic, peeled and mashed
1 tablespoon salt (coarse Kosher salt is best)
1 bay leaf, ground
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper
1/3 cup olive oil
1/2 cup Tortuga Dark Rum (** Optional. You can substitute moreorange juice if you prefer)
1-1/2 cups sour orange juice, or 1-1/4 cups orange juice and 1/4cup Cayman lime juice
2 medium yellow onions, sliced into thin rings
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon garlic salt
Trim off excess fat from pork and make shallowcuts all over meat. Combine garlic, salt, bay leaf, oregano, thyme,cumin and pepper in food processor and grind into paste. Placethe pork on a plate to catch any seasoning drips. Rub seasoningmix into the pork, making sure it goes into the cuts in the surface.Put the roast in a large bowl or jumbo resealable zip-top bag.Combine onions, olive oil, and rum and bitter orange juice andblend well and pour over roast, turning so roast is covered withmarinade. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or seal bag tightly andrefrigerate 24 hours, turning roast occasionally so marinate thoroughlysaturates all surfaces.
Preheat oven to 350F degrees. Remove roastfrom marinade (save marinade) and place fat side up in roastingpan lightly oiled with olive oil. Sprinkle with remaining pepperand salt. From here, the cooking methods vary according to cook.There are two suggestions from Cuban friends about how to cooklechon asado in the oven.
The first one: roast pork for an hour at350F, turning the meat during cooking so all sides are browned.After an hour, remove roast from oven, pour reserved marinadeand onions over roast and tent with aluminum foil. Return to ovenand reduce heat to 300. Roast for 2-1/2 hours longer, bastingoften with pan juices and marinade, or until roast is well done.The other method is to heat the oven to very low heat, 225 andcook the roast slowly, about 7- 8-hours-basting frequently withmarinade. Our Latin neighbors like their pork very well done,falling apart tender. Either way, the internal temperature shouldread at 180 degrees on a meat thermometer. Let stand 20 minutes,covered, before serving. This might serve 6-8 people.
Serve with fried sweet plantains, whiteor yellow rice and black beans. You'll also want to have a bottleof Tortuga Hell-Fire Hot Pepper Sauce or other favorite Scotchbonnet sauce handy, since this traditional recipe does not usehot pepper.